Ambunu is the dried leaf of Ceratotheca sesamoides, a wild Sahelian herb in the sesame family (Pedaliaceae), sometimes called false sesame. Soaked in water, the leaves release a mucilage that gives slip for detangling and a mild, soap-like cleansing action, which is why brands use it as a natural alternative to silicone-based detanglers.
Last updated: 2026.
What ambunu is
Ambunu is a traditional Chadian hair botanical, the dried leaf of Ceratotheca sesamoides. It grows wild across the Sahel and is harvested and shade-dried in the Guéra region of Chad, the same area known for chebe. It is sold as whole or lightly broken leaves, never as a fine powder, because the leaf form is what releases the working mucilage. You can see the full profile on our ambunu ingredient page.
How ambunu works
Ambunu works through two compounds in the soaked leaf: mucilage and mild saponins. The mucilage is a gel-like polysaccharide that coats the hair shaft and reduces combing friction, delivering slip without silicones. The saponins give a gentle, soap-like cleansing action without the harshness of a conventional surfactant. Together they let ambunu cleanse and detangle in a single step.
What brands need to know about ambunu’s INCI identity
For labeling, the starting point is the botanical: ambunu is Ceratotheca sesamoides, not true sesame and not the same plant as kinkéliba, with which it is sometimes confused. Because INCI designations are specific and maintained in the official INCI system, formulators should confirm the exact INCI name for their finished product against the current INCI database and their own regulatory review, rather than rely on a common name. Naming the correct species is the foundation of getting the label right.
How ambunu compares to other detanglers
Ambunu’s appeal is that it delivers slip and gentle cleansing from one plant, where a conventional routine would use a surfactant plus a silicone or conditioning agent. For sulfate-free, silicone-free, and minimalist positioning, that single-ingredient functionality is the draw. It pairs naturally with chebe, which handles the protective, length-retention step after ambunu has cleansed and detangled.
How brands source ambunu
Brands buy ambunu as whole, shade-dried leaves with a per-batch certificate of analysis, so the mucilage performs as the bench work assumed. Our ambunu is single-origin from the Guéra region of Chad, with a 10 kg minimum and documentation on every shipment. Specifications are on our wholesale ambunu leaves page.
Frequently asked questions
What plant is ambunu?
Ambunu is Ceratotheca sesamoides, a wild herb in the sesame family (Pedaliaceae), sometimes called false sesame. It is used for hair, not for seed oil, and is unrelated to true sesame.
What does ambunu do for hair?
Soaked, the leaves release a mucilage that gives slip for detangling and a mild cleansing action from natural saponins. That combination lets it cleanse and detangle in one step, without silicones or harsh surfactants.
What INCI name should I use for ambunu?
Start from the species, Ceratotheca sesamoides, then confirm the exact INCI designation for your finished product against the official INCI database and your regulatory review, since common names are not a substitute for the correct INCI listing.
Ambunu is a rare thing: slip and gentle cleansing from a single traceable leaf. Know the species, label it correctly, and pair it with chebe for a complete routine. See specifications and request a sample on our wholesale ambunu leaves page.